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Natural Indigo

A VISIT TO NILA HOUSE, JAIPUR

"WE WANT TO CELEBRATE THE MAGIC OF NATURAL DYE: HOW THE COLOUR CAN CHANGE IN UNPREDICTABLE WAYS, HOW IT CAN RUN, OR FADE OVER TIME, AND HOW BEAUTIFUL THAT IS."

Leaving the tumultuous Jaipur road behind me, I arrive at the entrance courtyard to Nila House. White flowers and delicate lights hang in the khejri and temple trees in the garden. A flautist sits cross-legged, surrounded by dozens of candles. A fountain gurgles in the evening stillness. Climbing the steps of the porch, past marble columns and cool corridors of white stone, I find the central atrium. Guests are packed about its edge, looking intently towards the centre. The moon rests above the lip of the open roof, small in the square of dark sky. Below, a robed Sufi dancer whirls across the floor, a blur of white robes, accompanied by the light jingling of bells from her ankles and wrists. Behind her, a diaphanous sheet gently ripples from her movements; the words ‘Nila House’ are stitched into the fabric, a line of indigo thread trailing from the final letter in a sweeping ‘U’ up to the needle, which has been left in place.

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